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Introduction: The Finishing
Touches
Perfectly manicured
nails are indeed a wonderful accessory! This certainly brings everything together, as the
nails can make or break a look. If you just look marvelous everywhere else, even with
that Armani tailored suit, your worn and chipped nail polish will look off-key.
Not
only that it is bad personal hygiene to have jagged unclean and uneven nails.
You do
everything with your hands and you surely do not want to risk an infection.
Please treat
your hands nicely -- you'd be surprised at how many people notice your hands altogether.
In the following paragraphs we will discuss
manicures and care for natural nails as well as acrylic, silk wrapped, gel tipped and
pedicures. I am even going to include a section on acrylic for your toenails because I
lost both my big toenails from skiing 3 days in a row with cheap ski boots (I am stubborn,
okay.). I again lost one of my big, newly grown out toenails again skiing in
those same boots the next season before I broke down and bought a pair of new
pricey skiboots. Needless to say I applied partial acrylic to my toenails to make them
pretty again. I could NOT wait for them to grow out because toenails take about
7 to 9 months
to fully grow out. Nothing like the speed in which your fingernails grow out.
I know this
sounds gross, but my feet are cute and I don't think they are gross. This really affected
me. I mean how else would I be able to wear those gorgeous Stuart Weitzman Cinderella
slippers I bought at the forum shops at Caesar's Palace, Las Vegas??? What blasphemy!
Caring For Natural Nails
The
Basic Tools of the Trade:
Cotton Balls/Cotton Rounds: I prefer the rounds. You know, the little cotton 'discs'.
They
seem to work better for removing polish and you also don't waste polish remover.
Good
bonus for this is that when you are doing a polish change on your toenails but want to
keep the polish intact on your fingernails; rounds are less likely to soak up extra
remover and run down your fingers.
Nail Polish Remover: I prefer the non-acetone polish remover with moisturizers added. I
fond that the non-acetone version takes a little more elbow grease (especially the cheaper
brands) but is less harsh on the nail bed and surrounding cuticle.
Nail Files/Emery Boards: (different colors for different grit) I find those little cheapy
orange-brown emery boards too coarse for the typical natural fingernail, but okay for the
natural toenail. I use the larger double-sided blue files used for acrylic nails
(Also known as, what else? The Blue File). I think the light blue side (finer grit) is a
good file for fine tuning or smoothing down the ridges. Yet the coarse side (Darker blue)
is strong enough for acrylic but not too strong as to damage the nail.
I don't like the diamond files nor do I care for any of the metal nail files.
Orange Stick: Named
appropriately for being made out of the wood of orange trees. Very creative.
Why
necessarily made from orange tree wood? I have no clue -- it just is. You can also use a
plastic "cuticle pusher" but for individuals with sensitive cuticles
-- use an
orange stick. You should never use a metal cuticle pusher as this can severely damage the
cuticle and nail bed. A cuticle pusher is also used for cleaning underneath the
nail.
Cuticle Softener: This can be a very harsh chemical.
Especially is you have damaged cuticles. It
is like an acid to soften the hardened stubborn cuticles. There is beauty book Stephanie
Seymour wrote and she suggests applying cuticle remover and then placing your hands in a
dish of warm soapy water.
Cuticle Nipper: There are nippers for acrylic which are stronger and nippers for cuticles and
hangnails (those painful little tags of skin that appear out of nowhere) which are not as
strong. Don't pull off hangnails or excess cuticles, use the nipper
and NEVER a pair of
scissors! I don't care how small they may be, break down and buy one.
A Bowl of: Warm
water with a little bit of mild liquid soap, which you will use to soak your hands in.
This helps soften the cuticle but also relaxes you. You can add a very small drop of
essential oil like Jasmine, Tea Tree or Evening Primrose along with a nice mild soap.
Don't add too much liquid soap, you only need a few drops. This also helps loosen the dirt
under the nail.
Nailbrush:
Uh, for brushing the nails? Yep, you guessed it.
Cuticle Oil:
A good oil to use is SolarOil by Creative
Nail. This has almond oil and vitamin E
among other ingredients to moisturize the cuticle. I love this stuff.
It
lasts forever, too!
Moisturizer: For soothing and softening your hands after a manicure.
You can
also use an AHA (alpha hydroxy) cream at night to help with your skin's natural renewal
process.
Pumice Stone/Foot File:
DO NOT! I repeat, DO NOT use one of those corn/callus blades. And don't let anyone else use these on you either.
A lot
of the cheaper, low budget nail salons use these. It is considered surgery and
is illegal for them to use it in their salons. The instruments
are actually a
handheld razor with a guard so as not to cut the client's foot but effectively remove
corns and calluses. It is unsanitary as your skin and possible blood is airborne.
Not to
mention you can risk an infection or foot fungus from improperly sterilized equipment.
Calluses grow for a reason. I will talk more on this later.
Nail Polish/Base/Top Coat:
If desired. I mean it isn't
necessary. But if you don't like Naked nails then you'll need this, as well. A higher
quality polish is recommended on natural nails as polish doesn't last as long as it does
on acrylics.
How To Give Yourself a Manicure
The Basic Tools of the Trade:
- Remove Polish: Wipe the nail bed with polish remover.
Work the
cotton round/ball towards the tip. This way you don't expose your fragile cuticle to
unnecessary drying from the remover. For stubborn polish rub it a little or place a
saturated round/ball on top and hold it there for a few seconds, then wipe.
- File Your Nails: you do this before you soak so as
not to damage or file too much of the nail away. Your nails get soft after soaking them in
water. Use a softer grit to file natural nails. Do not file deep into the sides of the
nail tip as this will weaken a natural nail.
- Cuticle Softener: Apply the cuticle softener to the cuticle
area. This may burn a bit. Let it soak in for a minute two.
- Soak: your nails the warm, soapy water for about 4 minutes.
You don't
want to get that wrinkly-raisin skin on your fingertips.
- Push Cuticles Back: I use an orange stick. Stephanie Seymore
(Beauty
Secrets for Dummies) Skin suggests that you wrap the orange stick in cotton or use a towel to push the
cuticles back. Just be careful when doing this because you can damage your nail matrix
which is where the nails are produced. You don't want to risk damaging the matrix.
- Moisturize: You
can take a good moisturizer and massage it into the cuticle area and into the nail bed. I
only do t his if I don't want to polish. But it can be done in addition to polishing as
well.
- Nipping Hangnails: I suggest using a cuticle nipper to remove excess cuticle or
hangnails. Do not pull hangnails off or you will be VERY sorry. Be careful while doing
this, you don't want to bleed. Make sure the nipper is sharp enough to remove skin
cleanly.
- Buffing: You
can get various buffing tools to remove ridges an otherwise add sheen to your nails.
Warning: Be careful when you
buff, it may get hot from the friction and will burn your nails, not to mention hurt like
the dickens! When I have natural nails I use one of those shiny dark gray buffers. this
will make your nails smooth and shiny. These get hot, too. Be careful.
- Polish Remover: Yes, again. this removes any excess oils you may have or soap residue.
This will
provide a nice smooth base for your polish. The polish will not adhere as well if you have
oils on the nailbed.
- Basecoat: You
can choose a basecoat like, Sticky by
Creative Nail or any good quality base coat
will do. Apply one coat of the basecoat working from the cuticle to the free edge (tip) of
the nail. Let dry for a bit.
- Polish: Roll
the bottle of polish back and forth between your hands or fingers to mix.
Shaking a bottle
of polish actually makes minute bubbles in the polish which will surface as it dries.
Dip
the brush once in the bottle, drag along the inner side of the bottle lip to remove excess
polish if need be. Sweep the polish on from the top center of the nail bed to the free
edge and then one sweep to each side of the nail. Two coats should do it.
This results in
a smooth distribution of polish. Also this way excess polish isn't deposited on the side
free edge of the nail. This may take some practice but it comes in time.
Remove the excess
polish you may have accidentally gotten on your skin or cuticle area.
- Topcoat: Use
a good topcoat, like OPI Topcoat or Beauty Secret Fast Finish polish dryer & topcoat.
Apply it as you did the polish. This gives your polish protection
an adds shine. You can add a coat of clear polish every other day to prolong the life of
the manicure/polish. Except! Sally
Hansen's No Chip Top Coat -- It peels
off and yellows, too. Well, it does for me.
- Nail Oil: I love and swear by Solarnail
Nail Oil (by Creative Nail). This stuff is
great! It has the right concoction of ingredients and a bottle lasts forever.
It smells
good, too! Brush a little oil on your cuticles after the topcoat is in the tacky stage.
Not exactly dry but not going to rub off onto your Nail Oil brush. I speak from
experience.
- Hand Cream:
Let the oil soak in a bit and then moisturize your hands with a good quality hand cream or
moisturizing lotion. Be careful to to hit your hands. Some people do this step at the same
time as moisturizing the nail bed and cuticles. Whatever suits your preferences.
How To Give Yourself a Pedicure
Feet
Need Lovin' Too!
Remove Polish:
If necessary, remove old polish with a moisturizing polish remover.
File: File
your toenails or clip them straight across. If you round them or take too
much off on the sides you'll get a nasty ingrown toenail. These hurt!
Remove Excess Cuticle: You may use the liquid cuticle remover, a nail drill (gently!) or a fine
grit nail file to remove excess cuticle. But this is only if you are doing a polish
change. If you are doing the Full Meal Deal then apply the liquid cuticle remover and then
soak your feet in a nice foot bath, a large bowl or tub with enough soapy water to cover
the feet. Soak your tootsies for about 10 to 15 minutes. You may add a little sea salt,
Epsom salt, orange peels, or essential oils if you like.
Smooth Feet:
Remove your feet from the water and pat dry with a fluffy towel. Use a foot file or pumice
stone to gently remove dead skin and calluses. You may not want to remove you calluses all
of the way (especially if you work on your feet). The calluses form for a reason. Check
your shoes or insoles. Add extra cushioning to the sides where your calluses form. Then
work your way into removing them completely.
Push Cuticles:
Push them back with an orangestick or plastic cuticle pusher. Do this gently, you don't
want to damage your matrix. Remove hangnails if need be.
Scrub: With a
soft nail brush, gently scrub your cuticle area to thoroughly remove the remaining
loosened excess cuticle.
Moisturize:
Pat dry and moisturize your feet with a good lotion, foot cream or Shea nut
butter (unless, you are allergic to nuts or nut oils). You may
massage this in really well. If leaving your toenails naked then apply a
thicker layer of lotion and put on some thick cotton socks. If not, then go on to the next
step.
Prep-work: If
choosing to polish your toenails, remove the moisturizer from the nail bed with a
saturated cotton ball or round or an orangestick with cotton or gauze wrapped around its
tip. This will create a nice, clean surface for your polish.
Base Coat:
You may or may not need to separate toes to polish.
If you do there are
many cheapy one-size-fits-all separators -- or use a paper towel snaking above and under
each toe, respectively. Apply a good base coat to the nail bed in the same fashion as the
finger nails. Don't be making fun of my pale, pasty feet, either. 
click on
photo for a larger image
Polish: Just
as if polishing your fingernails. Remember, one strip in the center, then one on each
side. Two coats should suffice.
Top Coat/Freeze Dry: Wait for the polish to dry to tackiness and then apply the top
coat smoothly.
click on
photo for a larger image
Nail Oil:
Apply nail oil to the cuticle area after the top coat has dried to tackiness or you will
suffer the consequences of getting polish on the nail oil brush. I hate that.
They say
"patience is a virtue" -- well I must not be very virtuous.
Acrylic
Nails
Most women go to a nail technician
for their acrylic nails. I would love it all the time, too. Except I don't have to time
nor the money to go every 2 weeks. So, I learned how to do them myself. And it looks just
as great as if a professional did them. I have been doing my own acrylic work for about 2
years now. I am going to recommend the products that I use because I believe them to be of
higher quality. Here I will give you step by step instructions on "laying
product"...
What you will need:
-
Cotton Balls/Cotton Rounds: As I said before, I prefer the rounds.
-
Absorbent Paper Towels: Make sure that is doesn't
litter or shed its fibers. Fold
over a high quality thick paper towel then fold it over again to create 4 layers.
Or use
one of those disposable nail towels. These are so cool! I love them.
-
Nailbrush: To
scrub your nails with after you file and smooth to prepare it for polishing.
-
Nail Polish Remover: Use a non-acetone polish remover.
Acetone removers will destroy the
artificial nail tips and acrylic overlay.
-
Nail Files:
I use the larger double-sided blue files used for acrylic nails (Also known as, what else?
The Blue File). I think the light blue side (finer grit) is a good file for fine tuning or
smoothing down the acrylic overlay on the sides of the tip and near the cuticle.
Yet the
coarse side (Darker blue) is strong enough for the acrylic overlay on top of the tip,
around the cuticle area and even for taking down length of the tip. You'll find a happy
medium.
-
Filing 'Block' (or 3-way filer): This is a rectangular file with grit on all four sides.
I use
the white blocks (different colors for different grit). Although it doesn't last as long
as the purple ones it is softer and doesn't tear up my cuticles as bad if I accidentally
hit them. They bend easier, too. The finer grits take more elbow grease but it is easier
to take off a little at a time rather than to add more later and wait for it to dry and
THEN file it some more.
-
Acrylic Nipper: Just like the cuticle nipper but stronger for cracking through old
acrylic.
-
Artificial Nail Tips: There are many types out there. I don't care for those rounded types nor
do I care for the really long talons. But, these are for your nails so it is your choice.
-
Nail Glue: Try
a good quality glue or even the InstaBond
or Nailbond brands will work.
-
Liquid Acrylic: I use the primerless
liquid acrylic by Creative Nail, but have used the cheaper ones when I needed a quick touch up
and was in a bind or am on a budget. The cheaper liquids don't matter that much -- unless they are
contaminated!!! This means don't clean your brushes with your liquid.
Although a nail tech
(mine as well) will tell you not to use Supernail
brand liquid (they train with this product -- cheap.) but I have used it before and
had good results as long as a GOOD powder was used which is the next product you will
need...
-
Powdered Acrylic: This matters. The cheaper powders turn yellow with age and with UV light
exposure. This means tanning beds or natural sunlight. I use Creative Nail - Solar Nail Ultra Blush Powder and sometimes the
Ultra
Natural Powder. These two are non-yellowing. I absolutely can't stand when my nails get yellow
-- it is so gross. plus! There is more
'lifting' when a cheaper powder is used.
-
Acrylic Brush:
A good acrylic brush is a necessity. It will last you a long time if you clean it
thoroughly after each use.
-
Dampen Dish: Why
do they call it that?? You need a dampen dish to hold your acrylic liquid
when you are applying acrylic. They sell these at beauty supply stores.
I recommend the
glass ones or the VERY strong acrylic dampen dishes. These are much easier to clean and
fare well with the chemicals
-
Nailbrush:
Any old nailbrush will do. This will help remove the excess powder after filing and
smoothing, creating a clean surface for your polish to adhere to.
-
Polish: Your
favorite Polish, OPI is
a good quality line and they always come out with new collections including all the newest
colors and hues. Creative Nail polishes are pretty good, too.
Although if you
want to experiment with other colors, the cheaper ones are fine. Where OPI
can run you up to $10, the cheapies are .99 -- and you can't beat that! Especially when
polish lasts 2 to 4 weeks on acrylic nails as opposed to just
4 to 5 days on
natural nails. You can use the more expensive brands on your natural nail to prolong its
use. Your body's natural oils and the bending of the
natural nail just prohibits the life time of a polish to just a few days unless you coat
with a clear coat every other day.
-
Fast Drying Topcoat: Freeze
Dry or Fast Dry, any good topcoat or quick
coat will do. Except! Sally Hansen's No
Chip Top Coat - It peels off and
yellows, too. Well, it does for me.
-
Nail Oil: Again, SolarOil
Rules! I love this stuff
How To Apply An Acrylic Overlay To
Nails
Am I breaking some sort of code here?
Am I not supposed to divulge secrets? Nonsense! It will save you a bundle if
you learn how to do this yourself. Although it doesn't make up for the 'time off' and
therapeutic quiet time you get having your nails professionally done.
Step By Step Instructions On Acrylic Application:
Nail Polish Remover:
Uh, you know what to do... Make sure it is a non-acetone remover
for nails with prior acrylic overlay.
click on
photo for a larger image
Preparation: If your nails are natural, roughen them up a bit with a fine grit filing block
and trim the nails to just at the skin -- not too much! You will have fine nail dust
around your cuticle, don't worry about this, you will scrub your nails later.
Just brush
it off with a dry brush or towel. If you don't trim your natural nails you can injure
yourself if a tip tries to snap off. Tips are more likely to snap off the nail bed rather
than the free edge area. It will bend or tear your natural nail off should you smash a
finger and have a lot of natural nail length. Plus it looks really trashy to
see nasty yellowed natural nails under the tips. If you are just doing an overlay without
tips onto natural nail I suggest you go for Fiberglass
instead. If you have old acrylic, carefully remove the acrylic near the cuticle.
It will
pop off sometimes and hit you or the person next to you in the eye, so beware!
Then file
the sharp acrylic edges a bit, take down length if need be or remove any nail tip that
needs to be replaced.
click on
photo for a larger image
-
Artificial Tips: Choose a good quality opaque brand, NOT those ridiculously thick, full nail bed
covering, yellowish-white tips. Tips come in like 20 sizes. Find a size that fits your
nail bed exactly. If you can't, find one close and file it down a little on the sides. You
need one that is going to sit flush against your nail bed. Have them all set out, next to
your glue, ready to apply.
Nail Glue: Use just a drop to the tip and place it on the tip up to the
little indentation where the free edge of your natural nail should go up to.. If you
accidentally apply it crooked, be careful it doesn't adhere completely. Either remove it
quick or you may have to soak this one off. What a pain. If you can't function with very
long tips, to put the other hand on, trim them down a bit. If you down a bit before you
resume.
click on
photos for a larger image
Determine Length:
Use an artificial nail tip cutter or a very large pair
of toenail clippers. If using the toenail clippers, cut from one side to the middle then
from the other side to the middle. Do NOT cut straight across with a pair of toenail
clippers. If you are a first timer, I seriously suggest you start off shorter and work up
to a longer length. No self respecting nail tech will give you much length if you are just
starting out. You could seriously hurt yourself. Compare each nail to get them
looking similar, It is always easier to cut off less than you want and just file them
down. You'll get the hang of it. If this is your first time laying product then I really
doubt your nails are going to look very professional the first time around. It takes a bit
-- like riding a bike. But if it does... Wow! You rule! You are a true glamour queen.
It
took me a bit
click on photos for a larger
image
-
File: File them roughly to the length
and shape you want them to be. You will be filing again
after the acrylic dries.
-
Liquid Acrylic:
Pour the liquid acrylic into your dampen dish that you have set on top
of your paper towel. This stuff stinks and can give you a headache -- at least that's what
I have been told, I am used to it. My boyfriend gets a headache when I do this, men!
Also
don't do this in a train or people will start leaving the car, I did this in Canada.
And
never lay product in an airplane- - even I haven't tried that one.
I know I
can't fly no matter how hard I flap my arms.
Acrylic Powder:
Open you container of powder, you can work right out of
the container if you are not in the habit of over saturating your brush.
click on
photo for a larger image
This is actually enough for
beginning laying product over a new set of tips - NOT a "fill".
Laying Product:
Dip your brush into the the liquid and wipe both sides
on the paper towel. Sometimes there is nasty residue left over from God-knows-where.
Then
dip your brush in the liquid again (not all of it, about 1/4 of the bristles - depends on
size of brush) and "wipe" the bristles on the inner lip of the dampen dish once
or twice (like you would do nail polish) so there is not a lot of liquid dripping into
your powder -- ruining it. Then dip the very tip of the brush into your powder. A little
moist "ball" of product should form at the tip. It shouldn't be too dry nor too
wet. You will learn in time. Apply this ball on the seam of the tip and
natural nail. Work it quickly to smooth it in, not flat though! Wipe your brush on the
paper towel to remove excess product and re-dip your brush tip in the liquid again and
wipe if need be or just remove excess with the dish-lip move. This all depends
on how much your brush is picking up or how much your are saturating your brush. Just
repeat the steps over and over, but do NOT get product on the cuticle area!
This will
cause lifting as well as increasing your possibility of developing an acrylic allergy
later on. Seriously.
-
Build up: You will have to do a
build up (*pinky is in process of build up) which is
where you make a tiny mound of product to mimic the natural curve of a natural
nail. Apply a coat to the tip as well at the free edge. Although not as thick as you would
the natural nail and seam. Remember don't get it on the cuticle area!
If you have lifting
you could get moisture between the acrylic and natural nail -- developing mold or a fungus.
Also, it will be awkward at first to lay product on your dominant hand.
As in,
if you are right handed, the product on the right hand may look a little funny because you
are not as talented with your left.
-
Acrylic on Toenails: Most nail techs won't do this.
The good ones will do it because
they understand that a missing toenail can ruin an entire ensemble. *boo!
hiss!* Do NOT
apply acrylic to tender broken skin. Let it heal first. It is ideal if a portion, even an
eighth, of the toenail is grown out. This is so the acrylic will have something to
adhere to. Apply the acrylic about as thick as you would on a build up.
Wait
for it to dry to a moldable tackiness and kinda create a free edge with the
end of an orange stick or plastic cuticle pusher. The ending result being a natural nail
look. Make sure it doesn't settle into the cracks on the sides of the nail where it meets
the cuticle. You could get lifting. After the desired build up and general
shape is formed follow the next steps as it were a fingernail.
-
If you have NO remaining
toenail:
Use NewSkin®: or mole skin to protect your
skin from the acrylic. You can get acrylic sensitivity if you keep exposing
your skin to it. Mole skin is the best but doesn't last too long, good
for a night out. And no I do not know if it is waterproof.
File:
After your acrylic is well dry, it takes less time to dry when you
use the right mixture of liquid and powder. It should take no more than 10 minutes past
the time it takes you to apply it to all your nails. And that is if your fast.
I am ready
to file about 5 minutes after I am finished laying product on all 10 nails.
File the sides
and close to the cuticle with the a medium grit nail file as well as shape the build up
area to look more rounded and natural looking. File the free edge as well until you get to
your desired length -- which shouldn't be much more since you already did this to the
approximate length. Make sure you put the same name from the opposite hand next to each
other so they will be the same length.
click on
photo for a larger image
Smooth:
Use a filing block (I use the white one) to finish smoothing the
nail so it isn't all bumpy looking. This will also smooth out any build up discrepancies.
click on
photos for a larger image
Scrub:
Scrub your new nails with warm soapy water and a nail brush.
This will remove any acrylic dust, excess chemicals or oils and will prepare your new nail
for the polish of your choice. Also, scrub underneath the free edge as well. It should
only take you a few seconds to do this, do not over do it.
click on
photo for a larger image
-
Polish: there is no need for a base coat as polish adheres well to the acrylic and will
last you longer than a fill will. You'll need the fill before you'll need new
polish. Polish nails like previously instructed. Some people polish the very tips of the
free edge (the thickness of the nail). I don't but, you can.
-
Fast Drying Topcoat: Apply a good topcoat or a freeze-dry type top coat to enhance shine
and further protect your polish.
-
Nail Oil: I use it just on the cuticles.
This will re-moisturize and condition your
cuticles after exposing it to the chemicals and the buffing/smoothing.
And that's it! You're finished!
*You will need a fill about every two weeks depending on your nail growth
rate.
In conclusion...
laying product well takes practice, don't get frustrated.
You can
use cheaper product at first to get the feel of it. Take care of your nail care
implements. You don't wan to risk infection. You really shouldn't share implements unless
you sanitize them between each use. Shop around for different colors.
There are so many
fun colors, sensual colors and natural colors available. A perfectly manicured hand
completes a look. People do notice if you have poorly maintained nails, especially if you
talk with your hands. Don't skimp on this important step in personal hygiene.
It says a
lot about you.
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