What Is Obagi Nu-Derm System? 
The Obagi Skin Health Restoration System and the Blue Peel were designed and formulated by dermatologist, Dr. Zein Elabdine Obagi.  The Obagi Skin Health Restoration System is a synergistic system which improves the health and appearance of your skin using products you can apply yourself, in the privacy of your own home.  Products include Hydroquinone and is normally used in conjunction with Retin A products to lighten, resurface and enhances the overall quality of the skin.

I personally use the Obagi system and can say that it has made it possible for me to go in public without thick make up to hide acne and acne scarring and hyperpigmentations.  I used to wear thick foundation and powder to hide my skin's flaws, now I can get away with wearing a little concealer under my eyes and some powder to control shine only.  I can honestly say that Obagi has given me the confidence I lacked before caused my poor skin.  I don't mean to sound like a commercial, as I have no financial ties or interest in the Obagi products and only recommend it because of what it did for me.  You can read my journal and see my before and after photos if you wish.

What Products Are Included In The Obagi Nu-Derm System? 
The Obagi Nu-Derm system includes several products, used together, to help surface the skin and lighten hyperpigmentations.

  • Obagi Gentle Cleanser: This is the cleanser I used.   It is formulated for normal, to dry, sensitive skin.  I do not have sensitive or dry skin normally, but this was in my kit.  I had to use a separate foaming cleanser to remove my make-up and then use the Gentle Cleanser.   I am trying the Foaming Gel Cleanser next.

    • Ingredients: Purified Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Gel, Glycereth-7, Apricot Kernel Oil (prunus armeniaca), Panthenol, Carbomer, Oleyl Lactate, Ethoxydiglycol, Triethanolamine, Sage Extract (salvia officinalis), Borage Extract (borago officinalis), Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Saponins, Fragrance, FD&C Yellow No. 5

  • Obagi Foaming Gel Cleanser:  I would like to try this cleanser next.  This one is formulated more for oily to normal skin, which is what I have.  It cleans deeply and removes oil without stripping your skin.

    •  Ingredients: Purified Water, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Medicago Sative (Alfalfa) Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract, Sodium Chloride, Xanthan Gum, Saponins, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Fragrance, D&C Red No. 33, FD&C Yellow No. 5.

  • Obagi Toner: I used this toner and although it was refreshing and helped with the flakiness, I didn't think it was necessary.  It claims to restore the pH level to your skin and prep it for your hydroquinone products.  I tried using Witch Hazel only as a toner but somehow found the Obagi Toner more refreshing and calming.

    • Ingredients: Purified Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Distillate, Potassium Alum, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, DMDM Hydantoin, Polysorbate 80, Allantoin, Salvia, Officianalix (Sage) Leaf Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Saponins, Fragrance, FD&C Blue No. 1.

  • Obagi Clear: This product's active ingredient is 4% hydroquinone which is a prescription strength.  This is one of the main products that I recommend and use frequently.  It works by blocking the over production of melanin.  Many people consider it a bleaching agent but it is actually a melanin blocker.

    • Ingredients: 4% hydroquinone

  • Obagi Exfoderm: This product's active ingredient is phytic acid. Phytic acid is more gentle than alpha hydroxy and stimulates exfoliation even more.  I never used this product and peeled a lot without it. 

    • Ingredients: Purified Water, Ethoxydiglycol, Phytic Acid, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Laurate Canola, Isohexadecane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Polydimethylsiloxane, Polysorbate 60, Steareth-20, PEG-150 Stearate, Glycereth-7, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Saponins, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben.

  • Obagi Exfoderm Forte: This also stimulates exfoliation but contains both glycolic and lactic acids, which are AHAs.  It is especially helpful in patients who have thick, stubborn and oily skin.  For those of you who are not peeling with your tretinoin and standard Obagi Nu-Derm products, supplement your regimen with Exfoderm Forte.  You will definitely peel! (note: I didn't have to use this)

    • Ingredients: Purified Water, Glycolic Acid, Emulsifying Wax, Triethanolamine, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride, Kalaya Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Saponins

  • Obagi Blender: I used this with my Retin A (tretinoin).  The active ingredient is also 4% hydroquinone and is also formulated to work with the tretinoin to stimulate exfoliation.  Although I noticed I peeled just as much not using it.  Some people mix the Blender and tretinoin together before applying it to their face, I however applied the Blender first, then applied my Retin A Micro.

    • Ingredients: 4% hydroquinone

  • Obagi Sunfader: I really liked the Sunfader.  Granted I didn't need it because I use a Sunblock 45 by Neova anyway, it is only 15 SPF so I don't think it gives you the protection you need.  Think of it as a hydroquinone product with a little oomph and also a SPF 15 thrown in.

    • Ingredients: Hydroquinone 4%, Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%, Oxybenzone 5.5%

  • Obagi Action: This product is a moisturizer especially formulated to be used with the Obagi system.  It can also be used to cut the strength in Clear, Exoderm and other products.  Although the idea is for the skin to be dry and exfoliate, if you have any discomfort this can be used in conjunction with your NuDerm products.  Do not use Action too often or you will lessen the system's effects. 

    • Ingredients: Purified Water, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Sorbitol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Proline, PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate, Phenoxyethanol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Triethanolamine, Propylparaben, Methylparaben, Potassium Sorbate, Saponins.

  • Obagi Eye Cream: 

    • Ingredients: Purified Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Petrolatum, Stearic Acid, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sorbitol, PEG-40 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sodium PCA, Beeswax, Lanolin Alcohol, Dimethicone, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Collagen, Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Propylparaben, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Diazolidinyl Urea, Butylparaben, and Saponins.

  • Obagi Tolereen: 

    • Active Ingredients: Hydrocortisone 0.5%, Inactive Ingredients: Purified Water (aqua), Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Stearyl Alcohol, Lactic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Disodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Complex 272 (Saponins)

  • Obagi Sunblock 24: 

    • Active Ingredients: Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 9.0%; Inactive Ingredients: Beta Carotene, Butylparaben, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Ethylparaben, Guarana (Paulinia Cupana) Extract, Hexyl Laurate, Isohexadecane, Kola (Kola Nitida) Extract, mate (Ilex Paraguariensis) Extract, Methylparaben, Octyl Palmitate, Octyl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Propylparaben, Purified Water, Saponins, Sodium Chloride, Vegetable Oil.

  • Obagi Healthy Skin Protection SPF35: This ultra-smooth Z-Cote® formula helps prevent sunburn from UVB radiation and protects against long-UVA rays linked to deep premature skin-aging.  Apply every morning as part of the Nu-Derm Skin Health Restoration System.  I used the Obagi Sunfader and a Sunblock 45 by Neova.

    • Active Ingredients: Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 9.0%; Inactive Ingredients: Butylparaben, Cetearyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Diethanolamine Cetyl Phosphate, Disodium Edetate, Ethylparaben, Isopropyl Palmitate, Laureth-7, Methylparaben, Octyl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylamide, Polyether-1, Polysorbate 60, Propylparaben, Purified Water, Sodium Hydroxide

Many times you can order the products in a kit.  I think this is cheaper in the long run and worth the price.  You sometimes even get a little bag with it when you get it from your doc.  Although, online that usually costs about 9 or 10 dollars extra.  Lame!

My customized kit contained:

  • 1 - 6.7 oz bottle of Gentle Cleanser

  • 1 - 6.7 oz bottle of Toner 

  • 1 - 2 oz bottle of Clear

  • 1 - 2 oz bottle of Blender 

  • 1 - 2 oz bottle of Sunfader 

  • 1 - blue Obagi Travel Bag

  • 1 - Obagi Instruction Booklet

  • 1 - tube of Retin A Micro Gel (separate prescription, not manufactured by Obagi)

Kits run anywhere from $300. USD and up and can be ordered online without a prescription as long as you fill out their skin questionnaire which is supposedly evaluated by a physician.

How The Obagi Nu-Derm System Works  
The Hydroquinone is the chief ingredient in many of the products.  Hydroquinone is used to block an over production of melanin and at 4%, this product is prescription.  Other products include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as lactic and glycolic acid, and still another product contains phytic acid. which is often made from barley.

With use of hydroquinone and tretinoin products such as Retin A, Renova or Retin A Micro, your skin's natural exfoliation process is sped up extremely fast -- often peeling several times a day.  The hydroquinone keeps you from forming hyperpigmentations and the tretinoin resurfaces the skin.  A 6-week regimen can drastically improve your skin, however some patients may need the full 3 cycles.

Are You A Candidate For The Obagi Nu-Derm System? 
If you have uneven, hyperpigmented, photo damaged skin and wish to rid yourself of these complaints you may be a good candidate for Obagi Nu-Derm.  Oftentimes, freckles, melasma/cholasma, lentigines (liver spots) and other coloring problems can been effectively corrected with a full course of Obagi.  The system can also improve acne, remove acne spots and red marks and improve the overall texture of the skin -- all the while removing superficial wrinkles.  Another plus is that a moderate to aggressive regimen can remove pre-cancerous lesions  Only a qualified skin technician or physician can determine if you are a good candidate.

How To Order The Obagi Nu-Derm System  
You may order Obagi Nu-Derm through your surgeon or dermatologist or even through your clinical aesthetician.  Many people even buy their products through the Internet.  Please be careful when doing this.  These products are prescription strength and without supervision, this can prove disastrous.  Please be careful.  Although, I initially went through a surgeon's office, and later ordered products through the Internet, I knew what to expect and have quick access to a surgeon's office if the need arises.

What To Expect During Your Treatment 
The first few weeks are the absolute worst.  In fact, many "Obagians" often quit, which is a shame.  It IS worth it, I promise you,  But it is not for the weak.  You will peel, you will be red, you will have intense dryness and discomfort at times.  Good skin does not come easy (or cheap) so this needs to be expected.

You will shed great sheets of skin, do not be alarmed this is part of the whole process and is encouraged.  I especially peeled around the chin, mouth and nasolabial areas.  This skin is thicker and will peel more often that your forehead.  Although the skin around the eyes is thin, you peel a lot here as well.  Be careful not to over-exfoliate or rub the skin off with your hands or a washcloth.  The more you do this, and the more you add your products the deeper it will penetrate and while this may be a good thing -- you WILL burn, you will possible make red marks and you may even bleed.  

If you need support, do not hesitate to check us out on the YTF! Beauty Board.  Lots of fellow Obagians there.  We've been through all phases of Obagi Nu-Derm and even the peels so if you have any questions, need support or simply to vent.

Risks, Complications & Contraindications of Obagi Nu-Derm 
Risks are usually attributed to the ingredients, Hydroquinone and tretinoin - as well as your actions while on the treatment.  Hydroquinone when used in very high strengths (much higher than is found in Obagi Nu-Derm products) has been connected with ochronosis.  Ochronosis is the condition when black specks spots form in the epidermis.  It is mostly seen in in persons of ethnicity (Africans and Asian have used this to lighten their skin, hence its ban in Africa and Asia).

Tretinoin initiates exfoliation of stratum corneum, yet thickens epidermis overtime and reportedly the upper layers of the dermis.  However, very aggressive use can temporarily thin the epidermis.  Aggressive use can also cause intense irritation, sores and blisters--especially near the corners of the eyes and mouth and around the nostrils of the nose.  This is thought by some to be due to the reaction with moisture.

Obagi and Tretinoin use is contraindicated in persons who are not willing to use sun protection products, those who are pregnant or lactating and possibly those who prone to keloids. Please discuss this lass factor with your physician. 

What Next? Maintenance or Peel or Both? 
After 1 to 3, 4 or 6-week cycles of Obagi Nu-Derm, you are then ready to start a maintenance program.  This may include sporadic use of the Obagi products and tretinoin.  Although, I did not stay on a complete maintenance program, it took me a matter of two weeks of use to get back to how I liked my skin and how it was after 3 cycles -- practically flawless.  The maintenance program is definitely worth it.

Some people choose to have the Blue Peel.  In order to have the Blue Peel you usually have to go through one cycle of Obagi Nu-Derm to prep the skin.  This will help prevent hyperpigmentations from forming from the peel.This type of peel is relatively new.  Also developed by Dr. Zein E. Obagi, this peel is an in-office trichloracetic acid (TCA) peel to correct fine lines, superficial scars, minimal laxity and pigmentation problems.  It is performed in 1 to 4 steps and is very beneficial to persons of all skin types.  Usually more invasive peels are unfortunately suitable to only those of European Caucasian descent.  With the Blue peel, persons of ethnic skin tones such Asian, African-America, Italian and other darker skins tones can safely undergo beneficial resurfacing. 

The solution is applied in 1 to 4 layers and left on the skin for 25 to 30 minutes.  You may feel a slight burning or stinging sensation as each layer is applied which may last from 2 to 5 minutes.  A fan will help you tolerate the stinging sensation -- so request if this is used.  The blue tint will darken and advise the skin technician when the peel is complete.  The blue tinge that you get from this peel may last for up to 3 or 10 days, depending.  So prepare to take off a few days for this one as well.  This peel may be reapplied at 4 week intervals. 

The Least You Need To Know About Obagi Nu-Derm

  • What: Obagi Nu-Derm

  • Why: to reduce the appearance hyperpigmentation, texture problems, superficial wrinkles, large pores and acne scars and spots.

  • When: from mid teens to mature ages, whenever one desires. 

  • Who: A clinical aesthetician, physician, dermatologist or plastic surgeon

  • Where: Obagi Nu-Derm is a home program, however the Blue Peel must be performed within office

  • Risks: Please see above

  • incisions/scars: n/a

  • Anesthesia: n/a

  • Duration:  4 to 6 weeks per cycle, up to 3 cycles for Obagi Nu-Derm, 25 to 30 minutes for the Blue Peel

  • Pain Factor: more of a lingering discomfort than anything, however peels are more intense.

  • Swelling: n/a, although some Blue Peel patients experience slight swelling

  • Bruising: n/a

  • Post-operative instructions: see your physician for details

  • 1st Post-op visit: depending upon physician, 3 week intervals, usually.

  • 2nd Post-op visit: check up usually at 3 weeks for exercise/activity release

  • Return to work:  You may work while on the Obagi Nu-Derm program, however you will appear as though you are recovering from a sunburn in the first few weeks.  After the Blue, Peel you may wish to take for a week or more.

  • Activity: no restrictions

  • Sun exposure: you MUST protect your skin during and after Obagi Nu-Derm or the Peel. This is imperative!

  • End result: improvements can be seen towards the end of the first cycle.

  • Loss of Sensitivity: n/a 

  • Other complications: see risks above

  • Longevity:  This depends upon the care of the skin, post-treatment.  You can not expect to retain the results if you continue to over-expose your skin to the sun or pick at your face. Take care of your skin!

  • Special Notes:  You will peel, you will have redness and dryness, this is the whole idea of the treatment.  Many people say, "I had a bad reaction to the Retin A or Obagi."  NO kidding, we ALL do. That's the whole point.  Hang in there.

  • The average prices: From $30. to $45. USD a bottle for the active ingredients.  Kits range about $300. to $350. USD  The Peel, depending, call your physician for more information.

Related Links  (all links leading outside the site will launch a new window)
 Buy Obagi Products (non-prescription)
 Obagi - The Official Site  
Retin-A Micro Official Site - www.trymicro.com  
Talk To Fellow "Obagians" On Our Message Board  
Read My Obagi Journal With Photos

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